There’s a rule of thumb to follow when picking paint sheens: The greater the sheen, the greater the shine. The greater the shine, the more resilient it is.
Flat paint doesn’t have shine, but gloss has lots of shine. When it comes to satin, semi-gloss, and eggshell, each has its own decorative, practical task to do.
Here’s how to pick the correct paint sheen for your home painting project.
Paint Sheen: Semi-Gloss & Gloss
Semi-gloss sheens are the most resilient. These finishes produce a slightly reflective, smooth finish that is enduring. It’s a good option for kids’ rooms, bathrooms and other spaces where pets and children spend a lot of time.
Suitable for rooms where grease stains challenge walls and moisture drips. Also excellent for trim work that takes a lot of mishandling.
High gloss finishes have the best reflective sheen. This sheen can be used practically anywhere you want to make a special, unique atmosphere. Though, surface prep is vital. This sort of paint highlights each bump and lump. High gloss paint is a good option for cabinets, doors, trim, and places that get dirty easily.
The simplest to clean and most resilient of any paint sheens, high-gloss paint is shiny, light-reflecting, and hard. Think appliance - paint is durable.
High gloss is an excellent option for spaces that deal with a lot of touching, like doors, trim, and cabinets. However, high-gloss delivers way too much shine for interior walls. Like spandex, you can see every roll. This means you indeed can’t be scanty when it comes to prep work.
Tips for selecting the right sheen
If your paint color is rich and dark, but you don’t want a real shiny effect, go one level down on the sheen scale. This is due to the darker and richer the paint color is, the more substantial amount of colorant it has, boosting its sheen level.
Raising the sheen also raises the cost, typically a dollar or two per gallon as you go up on the sheen scale.
The triumph of your paint job depends on realizing which paint type to use for various purposes and surfaces. For instance, using an incorrect paint to cover imperfections could highlight the problem you’re trying to correct.
Knowing your paint sheens
Paint sheens come in various categories, and every one has its characteristics. When researching new paints for your project, give sheens a real consideration.
There are five fundamental paint sheens: satin, gloss, semi-gloss, flat, and eggshell.
These sheens suggest the performance and aesthetics of the paint. For example, flat offers no-shine. Gloss paint sheen is the shiniest. Satin, semi-gloss, and eggshell come somewhere in the middle.
Paint Sheen: Flat & Eggshell
According to interior painting experts, flat finishes have a low reflective sheen and produces a smooth appearance in spaces with surface imperfections. These finish types are used to create appeal and dimension in any space.
In addition to concealing imperfections, flat finishes are simple to touch up. This makes them an excellent choice for dining room walls and ceilings. Though, flat sheens are best for low traffic areas, since this paint type might not hold up well to scrubbing or repeated washing.
Eggshell is suggested for high-traffic areas of your house. This high-sheen product provides more durability.
The name is very deceiving. The saying “walking on eggshells” doesn’t suggest durability and satin fabrics are the most difficult to clean. However, painting pros recommend an eggshell finish for bathrooms and kitchens that have lots of activity, as higher sheen finishes can usually endure repeated touching and cleaning.
Also, they’re great options for living rooms, family rooms, and bedrooms, What’s the difference between eggshell and satin? The latter is a little more long-lasting.
Not every project needs a base coat or primer. It is essential that the substrate before painting is clean and uniform in porosity, mainly if the finish coat will have a sheen. Primers are constructed to create uniformity and seal the surface, developing a consistent shine in the finish coat.
Talk with a Rochester painter for more information and advice on which paint sheen will work best for your project.
With so much importance being put on reusing and recycling, you might want to update your refrigerator with spray paint. It is an excellent way to prolong its life so that it doesn't end up on the city dump.
What to do
Spray the outside of your fridge with appliance epoxy and the inside with a protective gloss enamel
1. It is recommended that you do the spray painting outdoors. Pick a day that the weather is not rainy or windy.
2. Use old newspaper or a drop cloth to keep from getting any paint on your concrete. Once you’re finished, put your trays and fridge shelves on the cloth to paint.
3. Remove the handles. If you can’t, wrap masking tape around them.
4. It is critical to apply a light coat of paint one at a time. If necessary, you can touch up any spots you missed with a second coat.
Only apply the second coat of spray paint when the first coat is completely dry. When you are done applying the coats, allow them to dry before turning over and painting the other side of the shelves.
5. Give your fridge a good deep cleaning before you start painting. To get rid of all traces of grime and dirt, use a degreaser or sugar soap.
6. If there is rust or any scratches on the bottom of the fridge, sand them.
7. To get your fridge clean, use a vacuum cleaner to get rid of the ample amount of dust that is typically on the back of the unit.
8. Gently sand the exterior with 220-grit sandpaper.
9. Spray your refrigerator making even, light coats. Work from left to right. Spray 12 inches from the surface. If you stand too close or use too much, you’ll have drips and running paint.
Good to know
Shake the can very well before using to be sure the contents mix well.
Protective Gloss Enamel offers a shield against rust. For really rusted surfaces, use Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Primer.
Too much for you? Call a Rochester painter to spray paint your refrigerator for you.
Staining concrete is an affordable and easy way to remodel your indoor or outdoor space. The results are fantastic!
Just a few years ago, this technique wasn’t that well-known. Today, it’s the new trend.
It is popular because you can see rapidly turn something dingy and drab into something amazing.
Moreover, it's a fast DIY job. Are you interested in getting started? Here are tips for staining concrete.
Pick a color
A few concrete stains are opaque, just like paint. Others are semi-transparent to let the concrete's color distinctions come through. Search online for ideas or ask a professional house painter for ideas and to get some vision for your job.
For best results, patch and repair crevices and cracks. Be sure that patching compounds won’t show through the coating. New concrete must first cure for a month.
Clean the surface
Surfaces must be dry and clean (no dirt, grease, sealers, or dust). All old and new concrete must be sand/water blasted, deep cleaned, or etched first. Any residual liquid must be removed and the concrete completely dry before sealing.
If you plan on doing any design elements that need taping, now's the time to apply it. Gently stir the stain before use. If in doubt about the correctness of the product, test an inconspicuous area for adhesion.
Apply the stain with a high-quality synthetic brush, or roll using a shed-resistant roller cover, or apply using an airless spray.
With edges and corners, apply with a brush, then apply evenly with a roller over the remainder of the surface, applying in one direction. Don’t overwork the stain.
Keep edges wet for no lap marks
Two coats are all that’s needed to get maximum protection and performance. 4 to 6 hours is all that’s necessary for the first coat to dry.
Don’t use in temps under 50°F or if it is going to rain. Also, don't apply the stain in direct sunlight. The stain will dry too fast.
Dry to touch: 25 minutes. Light foot traffic: 60 minutes. Heavy traffic: 3 days.
If this job seems like too much of a hassle, contact a Rochester painter to do the project.
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